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MotoBoat wrote:So that is a 16footer your working on. Cannot really tell by looking at the pictures. The stability is definitely better on that than the smaller 12 or 14ft versions. Again, curiosity lurks. Will the bottom of the open area have a level sub floor to stand on? I bet the dog would really appreciate the warmth of that over a cold aluminum floor to lay on. But then, he will probably be steering the boat most of the time.....Ha!
I had noticed your not using treated wood. I had read somewhere that the older version of treated wood, adversely effects aluminum when in contact. Something in the treated wood causing a dissimilar metals reaction or something? Could you mention what you know about that?
G-Man wrote:The problem chemical is copper sulfate. Copper and aluminum are dissimilar metals and when in contact with one another, aluminum will become the anode and corrode quickly. Of course, if you can take moisture out of the equation, you can prevent the reaction. However, we all know that is just about impossible on a boat.
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MotoBoat wrote:G-Man wrote:The problem chemical is copper sulfate. Copper and aluminum are dissimilar metals and when in contact with one another, aluminum will become the anode and corrode quickly. Of course, if you can take moisture out of the equation, you can prevent the reaction. However, we all know that is just about impossible on a boat.
What is the best scenario, to solve the issue when using a bunk type trailer?
Mike Carey wrote:The attention to detail is really impressive. I know where to go someday when I have to gut my boat.
G-Man wrote:MotoBoat wrote:G-Man wrote:The problem chemical is copper sulfate. Copper and aluminum are dissimilar metals and when in contact with one another, aluminum will become the anode and corrode quickly. Of course, if you can take moisture out of the equation, you can prevent the reaction. However, we all know that is just about impossible on a boat.
What is the best scenario, to solve the issue when using a bunk type trailer?
#1 Don't use pressure treated wood.
#2 Paint the hull of your boat.
#3 Use enough guide slicks to make sure that none of the carpet and or wood makes contact with the hull.
I can't imagine any boat trailer manufacturer using wood treated with a copper based chemical for their bunks. If you need to replace them go with untreated select grade pine/fir or if you are a big spender, clear cedar.
.bassplayer17 wrote:Steve nice work can't wait to come down fish out of it. Id like to fish some of those lakes down there. Just need it to warm up some
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MotoBoat wrote:What is your live well liner made of? I can't make out in the picture. If it is a one piece pre-made liner or made it your self/form it type product.
edge540 wrote:MotoBoat wrote:What is your live well liner made of? I can't make out in the picture. If it is a one piece pre-made liner or made it your self/form it type product.
Its a clear Rubbermaid storage bin, seems pretty tough. I framed under and around it for support. I could have painted it but I was worried it might become brittle. 90qt storage bin a at wall mart + $15
Rosann G wrote:Spray furniture polish like Pledge will work on the bunks to keep them slippery too, just don't drive the boat on too hard. Ha ha! Bill almost did that the first time we used it.
Your Smoker looks really great. We added front and back platforms and a rod locker on one side to our first Smoker but nothing as fancy as you are doing.
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Really cool, I'm going to have to show Bill tomorrow. You have done a really good job on it. Hope you get to take it out on a maiden voyage soon.












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