Our Lund Renegade 1650, Before and After
Shortly after we purchased our Lund I promised that I would keep everyone up to date with the upgrades, improvements and our overall satisfaction with the boat. But first, as an interesting side note; sadly Lund has removed the Renegade 1650 from their product line up. They had a niche following here on the west coast but overall the Renegade model line fell short of their sales performance goals. I guess that our boat is truly one of a kind. Over the years I have owned everything from kayaks to off-shore fishing rigs. All of my boats were and are primarily used for fishing. During their time with me the boats were customized into better fishing platforms. Our Lund Renegade 1650, as delivered was bare bones with a couple seat boxes, a pedestal seat and a 40 hp Yamaha 4-stroke hanging on the back. Not glamorous but I had a “plan”.
Knowing what I ultimately had in mind for it. The goal was to set-up an economical to tow, easy to launch anywhere, stable fishing platform that was fishing friendly and easy on the wallet to run. As noted previously we purchased the boat bare bones, without the built in tank. No use hauling around 17 gallons of gas and trying to keep it fresh when most of our trips will only require a couple of gallons tops.
As with the purchase, everything that I do to the boat is well thought out and typically has a specific purpose. In rigging the boat I am interested in making it a capable general all-around fishing platform targeted towards trout, kokanee but also capable in any prop based freshwater or salt water salmon fishery. Following will address the evolution of our boat through its current configuration.
The first major upgrade was the addition of downriggers. In that I already had manual downriggers we ran them for a couple years. But this year we will be sporting the new Scotty High Performance downriggers. We ended up getting an outstanding deal on them but to be honest for me the key selling point was the illuminated digital depth counter. After years of fighting the condensation on the old mechanical depth counter windows the illuminated set up is fantastic. Another key feature of the 2106s is the 36”-60” telescoping booms. With the potential to run a wider spread off the downriggers is gives me a lot more flexibility in managing multiple lines while reducing the possibility of tangling the lines in a prop. The addition of the electric downriggers required an electrical system upgrade which included the necessary fuses and wiring for the downriggers and while I was at it, the installation of a main electrical shut-off and an additional fuse panel.
Last year’s major upgrade was the addition of new seat boxes. Originally I had ambitious plans to build a raised bow deck with a fishing chair, live well, rod stowage and a fish box but I had decided not to do anything until we had at least a season of boating activities/experience to help with the design activity. Late 2011 I had fabricated a full mock-up of my raised deck concept and we pondered if it would really meet our needs for a few weeks. For us the answer was no so it was back to the drawing board. All though many of the features were way cool the reality was we didn’t consistently need them. A key concern with the raised deck design was a safety issue. The raised deck design significantly reduced the deck to gunnels dimension and we felt it would be unsafe while pulling crab pots or pulling the anchor when fishing on the Columbia or other big water river.
We settled on a much simpler design and although the end results doesn’t look like much of a change. The change is significant in eliminating clutter and providing much needed additional seating capacity. In the current configuration the starboard compartment is sized to hold all the safety gear. The fire extinguisher, bow light and flash light all mount on the ceiling of the compartment with room leftover for all the PFDs, flares, mooring lines, first aid kit and boat documents. The port compartment is not dedicated stowage but available for a given trip’s needs. Our soft cooler will just fit in the hatch so lunch and sodas will be out of the way. One of our original dilemmas was to provide occasional extra seating capacity without having to bring a lawn chair or an additional ice chest to sit on. The current design is such that an additional passenger can comfortably sit on the forward portion of the seat box when needed. Custom seat cushions and bolsters are still planned. Another issue with the original seat boxes was their height. My primary fishing partner has short legs and the original design had her sitting in an uncomfortable position. The new seat box design is more comfortable for her.
As part of this year’s annual boat upgrade I fabricated new downrigger mounts. My goal was to eliminate the rotational torquing of my gunnels consistent with the old mounts and to better stabilize the downrigger mounts by transferring the load to a structural member of the boat. This year’s upgrade also included the fabrication and installation of a new rear/driver’s seat pedestal that my fuel tank will fit under. Major boat projects are done for the year and weekly trips in search of one aquatic creature or another should get back to normal.
Today the boat is rigged as follows:
Yamaha Electric Start, Power Tilt 4-Stroke 40 with Tiller
Minn Kota 12 Volt Transom Mount Trolling Motor and Associated Wiring.
2 2106 High Performance Scotty Downriggers with Braided Cable and Swivel Brackets
Humminbird 798ci SI Combo Fishfinder and suction cup transducer
Columbia River Anchor System, with 150’ and 300’rode sets.
A General Use Anchor + 75’of rode
4 Scotty Rod Holder Mounts and 4 Scotty Rod Holders
1 Custom rear seat pedestal with a Tempess Navistyle seat
2 Custom forward seat boxes, port and starboards with storage and 1 each Tempress All-Weather seats
Top, Side Curtains and Drop-Back
Some form of pot hauler
A Yamaha 4 stroke 8 as a Kicker
Are we still pleased with our purchase? Very much so! Purchase decisions in our house are painful but well thought out and so far our Lund has exceeded all our expectations. The short of it is that we love the thing. The boat fits in the garage, is economical to tow, easy to launch and retrieve solo. It is very stable at rest or at trolling speeds but will handle the bigger water if needed. Our Lund is the driest riding 16’ open boat I have ever owned. Not only is it dry riding but it is also it is very smooth running at cruising speed. While navigating any sea conditions encountered so far, the boat has been predictable at the helm and handles a following sea with confidence. While anchored the boat tracks well in heavy current and shifting river conditions. We feel secure taking the boat out on any body of water and in any reasonable sea or weather conditions. With 2 or 3 adults onboard and a day’s worth of gear our top end is about 33 mph. Loaded the boat cruises at 20-25 mph/4,200-5,000 rpm and idles down to about 1.2-1.4 mph. We often burn less than a couple gallons of gas while fishing our local lakes for the day. We have made numerous trips to fish Lake Stevens or Lake Samish where we were trolling for 4-6 or even 8 hours and burned less than 1 gallon of gas. Additionally the boat tows a tube with authority and I am sure that we could pull a water skier without any problems. After 420 hours on the hour meter our overall fuel consumption is excellent and allows us to run the boat without having to consider the cost of fuel. With the boat behind our 4x4 Tundra equipped with 410 gears there is minimal impact on the tow rigs MPG and did I mention, the thing fits in the garage...
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Posted: 03-14-2013, 08:27 PM
Kokanee Fever, Kokanee Katching Thoughts Revisited
With the warmer weather it seems as though there is a renewed interest in kokanee fishing here in Western Washington. A number of fellow WashingtonLakers have already had successful kokanee outings on Lake Stevens, a popular north end kokanee lake. The other day while heading south to Everett to drop some recently fabricated boat parts off at the powder coater I was talking with my grandson (he never stops talking…) and he asked what a kokanee was. After my initial response that it was “beer in a blue can” he said "What? What is a kokanee?" Our little exchange got me to thinking that it was time for another Blog post and a sharing of kokanee information.
For good reason there is an increasing popularity in the overall kokanee fishery. Kokanee are a great sports fish, hard fighting and very tasty. First though I don’t believe in fishing secrets and as the season progresses I will try to share every detail that may be relevant in helping others to be successful kokanee fisherman. I hope that everyone will do the same, share your success and learn from others success. Until the season gets rolling my best advice is to believe in what you are fishing with and if you are not catching anything start systematically changing things until you figure the fish out. Systematic change means being able to assess the impact of the change on your fishing success. Never change two or more things at once. As an example; when you change a lure type or color run it at different depths before you make another change. Your goal is to know what speed, color, lure or depth works. Once you figure it out you can duplicate the changes on the remaining rods. By systematically changing your presentation you will be able to pinpoint what is working and what is not. Remember kokanee are schooling fish, where there is one there should be more willing to bite the same color lure at the same depth running at the same speed.
Although though you can catch kokanee without a fish finder, a quality fish finder is the single most important piece of equipment in your kokanee catching arsenal. Learn your electronics, the key is to understand and trust your particular electronics. Start fishing just above the thermocline and then make the necessary changes from there. As the lakes surface tempature starts to rise locating the thermocline is important in determining what depth to fish for kokanee. On a better meter the thermocline will show as a band of (for lack of a better term) interference. Typically the band of interference will be denser in the middle with a symmetrical dispersion of the interference above and below the denser area.
Kokanee rods? I have a ton of rods, OK maybe not a ton but 100 or so. I know that it sounds like a lot but if you consider that I have been collecting them for 30+ years it is not too bad. As an avid fisherman and having lived in different areas of the country I was outfitted for a number of regional specific fisheries and I still have almost every rod I have ever owned. Within my rod collection there are 6 rods that I would consider my "kokanee rods"; 2 Lamiglas team Kokanee rods (the red ones), 3 Fetha Styx FS-FW-761-2C (7’ 6” 4-10#) and 1 Lamiglas AC 73UL (7’ 3” 2-8#). I have successfully caught kokanee on other rods in my collection but the 6 noted provide a great balance of control verses a forgiving action.
The Team Kokanee rods are exceptional downrigger rods providing a consistent parabolic bend when set up in the downrigger clip. They recover quickly after a takedown and provide the necessary backbone to fight the fish while the boat is still in gear and moving forward. I absolutely love the Fetha Styx rods mentioned for kokanee or any lake downrigger fishing. They have the backbone required to control any fish you might catch, including sockeye while still having a very forgiving overall light action. In my opinion they are the perfect freshwater downrigger rods. The last rod, my Lami Rock Creek rod may seem a bit on the light side but it kicks butt. Last spring while fishing a local lake I happened to locate a few large trout and during the course of a couple hours I hooked 5 monster trout. A couple threw the hook at the last minute but I was still able to put three on ice where the largest was over 6 pounds. I was fishing solo at the time but was confident that I had control of each fish right to the end.
I prefer using the round baitcaster reels for all my downrigger fishing. They are simple to operate while setting gear, feel good in my hand, have a smooth drag and offer the most control of your aquatic nemesis. I am partial to Shimano products but have also have had exceptional luck with the Caiman reels. Choose a reel brand that you are comfortable with and assure that it balances well with the rod it will be used on. Braid verses mono? I prefer braid on all of my trolling gear. For trout/kokanee fishing I spool the reel with the appropriate braid then add a 20-50’ top shot of 4-8# fluorocarbon. I have been successfully running this braid/fluorocarbon combination for years and have never had a fish pop off because there was no stretch in the line. My rods and the drag setting help to provide the shock resistance required to land the soft mouthed kokanee. I don’t put every fish hooked in the boat but am very successful with this combination. Don't over think the rod choice and remember; the rod that catches the most kokanee, is the one in the water fishing.
Technique and what gear to run? The list is endless but here are a few ideas to get you started. While downrigger fishing, with the boat moving forward at your chosen trolling speed set your gear in the water well clear of the prop-wash and establish the set back (the distance between the downrigger clip and your attactor). With the exception of some specialized techniques I usually run a set-back of 24’–30’. Once the downrigger is at depth and rod is in the holder I usually don’t crank reel until the rod, line and release clip have become one with the rod tip at the water. I usually set it so the release clip and cable angle is somewhere around 45 degrees (you will have to experiment with your individual speed and set-up), and is somewhat loose so the bite is easily detectable. I never use the trolling snubbers, but then again I have lost a couple nice fish at the boat because of the hook pulling out of a kokanee's soft mouth so they may be a good idea. I have gone exclusively to double hook rigs when kokanee fishing and rarely loose a fish because the hook just pulls out of the fish. If our boat looses a fish it would be because of some form or another of operator error, not a fish lip related problem. I have been asked about treble hooks for kokanee. I never use treble hooks in my trolling rigs and with some exceptions I custom tie all my rigs using size 6 or size 4 octopus hooks. I feel very confident with my 2 hook rigs. Leader length varies from lure to lure. With a squid type of lure and depending on the day you may be fishing a very short leader, maybe as short as 8”. With a spinner type lure or a spoon I rarely use a leader longer than 18” and usually my leader is around 14”. Regarding commercial wedding band spinners, they work great out of the package but I would tie up some 2 hook leaders using size 6 octopus hooks and then restring the wedding band stuff on the 2 hook leaders. For bait I am partial to the corn but always have worms and maggots on board also. I do use various scents on the individual lure, attractors and on the bait. I am also equipped with every color in the rainbow because in my experience depending on the weather, body of water that is being fished and water temperature the fish will key in on different colors. You need to be prepared to change presentations as required. I carry many different attractors, lure types, baits and scents and will make changes as conditions are dictated by the often finicky kokanee. What worked yesterday may or may not work today and what is working now may not work an hour from now. Be prepared to change.
Regarding trolling speed, although there are exceptions kokanee like a trolling speed of 0.9 -1.7 mph. I always try to start out at around 1.0 mph but depending on conditions that may change. I vary my speed often both via motor speed and by trolling an “S” pattern. My main motor will reliably idle in gear at about 1.2-1.4 mph. If I need to run slower I just put the electric trolling motor in reverse and I am able to fish as slow as .8 mph.
When fishing our local Westside lakes my initial plan of attack is to run at least one downrigger rod and one flat-line rig. It varies from there depending on the number of fisherman on board. I am often running 4 rods, 2 off the downriggers, 1 lead-line rig and 1 flat line rig. I will run the downrigger gear deep chasing meter marks. The lead line will start out at about 1 color and the flat line rig will start out at 60’ behind the boat.
Generally I prefer to fish the swing blades but there are times when the dodgers out fish the swing blades. The swing blades create lass drag while trolling and when a fish is hooked the swing blade stops swinging so there is less drag on the line while fighting the fish. In my opinion the dodger creates more action at the lure and will telegraph action to the bulkier or heavier lures. Both work and lure action is only part of it, the attractor creates a low frequency sound wave that is like the dinner bell for kokanee. Regarding color, because our Westside lakes are typically peat bogs and the water is stained I prefer gold, copper, brass or some version of in prism tape. I have been experimenting with UV reflective tape and have had tremendous success. The old school side of me likes the various hammered dodgers in brass, copper or half-n-half but I run many different colors of attractors and have had success on all of them. I believe that the new UV finishes available the last couple years have revolutionized our local kokanee fishing. I typically fish the 0000 size dodgers and 4 ½” swing blades.
My leader lengths vary widely depending on the lure and about 100 other variables. There are times when I will fish mini squids or non-spinning lures with leaders as short as 4 or 5” but typically I fish about an 8 – 12” leader with the mini squids. For spinner blade type lures I will fish a 10 – 18” leader. When trolling spoons behind the attractor I will use a 12 - 20” leader depending on the weight and action of the lure. I think that the general rule of thumb is 1½ - 2 times the length of the attractor but I often bend the rules and use what works.
Ok, the technique has been put to bed now what about your boat? As I have said before “The best boat you can have for catching kokanee is the one you already own.” To optimize your current boat for trout or kokanee fishing there are a few things to consider. I shared a version of the following information via a blog post a year or so ago but thought the information will prove useful as we get ready for this year’s kokanee assault. As with the purchase, everything that I do to the boat is well thought out and typically has a specific purpose. In rigging the boat I am interested in making it a capable general all-around fishing platform targeted towards trout, kokanee and freshwater salmon but usable in the salt. Following are my general thoughts on setting up the perfect trout/kokanee fishing machine.
Rod Holder Orientation and Location:
Purchase and install more rod holder mounts than you will use at a given time. Make sure that both the rotational and the horizontal angles are adjustable, while lake fishing more often than not you will be fishing with the rod parallel to the water. Different types of fishing; trolling, drift or anchor still fishing or side drifting require your rod holders to be in different locations. Think before you drill! Will the butt of the rod interfere with another on board activity? Are they accessible for the different types of fishing? Are they convenient to the operation of the downrigger(s)? Are they handy to the operator while seated in the driving position? Again think before you drill, placement of the rod holders is critical for success in any fishery.
I have to admit that I catch as many trout and kokanee on 12# or 14# lead line than the downrigger rod but I think that the downrigger is consistently responsible for larger fish and fighting a fish is just plain more fun. On my boat the downriggers, associated rod holders and fish finder are located so that they can be monitored while driving the boat. For me this is critical, I often chase meter marks and the three need to be convenient to each other and the boat operator. Spring for the braided downrigger line, it is silent in the water, offers less resistance or blow-back and is easily repairable if the line is damaged. Make sure that where ever your mounting location is, it is sturdy and use backing plates and fender washers for the mount installation. In choosing the mounting location make sure you can manage your downrigger balls without falling overboard. Are you able to access the release clip with some degree of safety? Consider some form of ball retriever, a boat hook, a rod with a hook on it or a commercially available ball retriever will all work. I use the Scotty ball retriever system and love them. Also to be considered; are you able to pull up to a dock without formally introducing the downrigger arm to the dock facing boards or another boat?
I have operated everything from a high-end Furuno Ethernet system to a 100.00 portable. All have their place and while more is cool, less or what you need is better. For trout or kokanee typically you don’t care as much about bottom structure or the various navigation features (although they are nice to have). You’re looking for a thermocline, schooling or individual fish. I started with a grayscale FF and have caught plenty of fish with the grayscale FF technology, for that matter still do (it is my portable unit). That said grayscale units are not ideal for studying the thermocline and in my opinion you need a color unit. Although my unit has a fish ID capability I never use it preferring the actual sonar history or fish arches. Regarding settings, where most people try to eliminate clutter on their fish finder screens I welcome it and typically tune things up to acquire more data to make decisions from. I want lots of clutter on my screen, clutter means more information is available. I usually have the sensitivity set pretty high, the noise filter off and surface clutter set low. On my rig I can see the difference between the clip and the downrigger ball and can make out multiple individual fish. With the unit being color I can tell the difference between other fish and kokanee with some degree of accuracy.
Kokanee have proportionately larger air bladders than other fish their size. When running your fish finder in the arch mode Kokanee will typically be distinguishable from other fish. I know that cone angle, frequency, water conditions, the fish’s position within your transducer cone and other factors will affect your ability to interpret sonar readings but generally when fishing for kokanee the fish arches showing on your meter will have a red area in the middle of the arch. Thermocline is also important in determining what depth to fish for kokanee. On a better meter the thermocline will show as a band of (for lack of a better term) interference. Typically the band of interference will be denser in the middle with a symmetrical dispersion of the interference above and below the denser area.
While kokanee fishing in the spring and early summer I often have the FF set with a lower range of 50’ or 60’ and the upper range is set at 10’-15’. Typically I am not concerned with anything above or below this range. With my screen only displaying a band of 40’ or 50’ of water I am able to see additional detail and the fish arches are more defined. An added benefit is that the scale is not jumping around as the auto depth feature detects different depths. For trout or kokanee typically you’re looking for a thermocline, schooling or even individual fish. Each trip and in each body of water you will need to tune the unit for the conditions.
During a typical day of trout or Kokanee fishing I may change lures 50 times. Unless I kept things organized my boat would be a war zone, difficult to move around in and generally unsafe. While fishing for anything, keep everything organized. On my boat I have found that the pipe installation type leader keepers are an excellent way to keep pre-rigged lures and leaders organized. I frequently have a 80# dog and kids on board so the placement of unused rods, the net, pliers, dikes and even the garbage is well thought out. The boat is still a mess at the end of the day but at least I started with a plan. For your boat look carefully at your needs, spend an hour or so just sitting in it while parked in the driveway and think out your organizational approach. Everybody’s will be different depending on, finances, time spent in the boat, your physical limitations, whether or not you fish solo, type of fishing excreta… Take the time to organize your boat and there will be a higher likelihood that your on the water experience will be a positive one. If not at least you’ll be able to find the first aid kit if you need it, which reminds me…make sure you have some form of basic first aid kit on board.
A lot to read, but I hope that it was found useful. This year should bring some awesome fishing opportunities and being prepared with a plan will help to assure that you get the most out of your fishing time.
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Posted: 03-05-2013, 12:27 PM
What a Catch!
Now where did that rseas guy go? He seems to do this every year, come along the end of October he disappears only to be found occasionally lurking in the forums. OK, I'm guilty. I don't know what happens with the 4th quarter but each year the rseas spare time machine always seems to be down for parts. This year though we have a good excuse, I now have a reason to buy more rods, reels and fishing gear. I have a new fishing buddy.
What the heck, what am I talking about? With the usual end of the year chaos, work and life in general it has been a busy 3 or 4 months but this year we had a special project in work, our household has been blessed with the addition of an adorable, energetic bundle of three year old little boy.
I won’t bore you with the sorted details but the end result is that my grandson is now enriching our every moment and living in our home. Although the story may seem sad he was surrounded by loving caretakers that truly care about him. Through changing circumstances he has come to our home not as a guest but as a permanent member of the rseas clan.
As our little man is a future student of Rseas Kokanee University, weather permitting his brain washing begins this weekend. He is over the top excited about his first fishing trip and has already eaten lunch in the driveway bound boat. I am not sure which local fishery we will explore for his first outing but rest assured that it will be an adventure.
Never being one that can leave well enough alone, we have had a few other things on the burner as well. I have a number of fabrication projects in work for the boat and I am finally giving in and am going to have a bimini/canvas enclosure made for it (unless I can wiggle my way out of it for another year…). Boat stuff aside, we are also setting up a 120 gallon custom saltwater reef tank. In hindsight, since I used to do saltwater tank installations and maintenance I should have known better. Just like a boat someone could give you the set-up lock, stock and barrel and you'll still go broke. We are also looking at remodeling the upstairs bathroom. Hey why not, it can't be that big of a project... The last springtime project and hopefully not the straw responsible for the camel’s trip to the chiropractor is a bed platform/pullout kitchen for the back of the truck. It is all designed and I hope to start cutting wood by the end of the month, early March.
All that said I still have this years fishing adventures to plan and prepare for. I hope to perfect my sockeye flies. I am also developing a pink salmon fly where my goal is for it to be effective on the salt as well as in the rivers. In addition to our fall trip east of the mountains, while the water is still up in the tules I hope to plan a Mardon Resort/Potholes trip this spring. I want to actually target bass in shallow water instead of catching them as an incidental catch. We would also like to do a Chelan weekend and hunt the large lake trout that skulk in the depths awaiting the dark form of some lucky anglers lure to silently glide through their sensory zone. Although I have a few new kokanee lures on the drawing board there are no major changes in our kokanee plan this spring. Just pound the water as often as possible and keep the smoker full. As a quick side note; I have been keeping an eye on the happenings at Lake Samish and there are gazillions of large kokanee jumping all over the lake. Finally, on a briny note, this summer is forecasted (according to my inside sources) to be a banner Puget Sound salmon year. Either way we plan to frequently splash the boat in the salt this summer. I hope to try a number of the less crowded areas we fished as kids. With no major changes in our usual gear or technique being planned, the nostalgia and secluded fishing spots should be the makings for a memorable summer on the water.
I hope that this helps to clear up the where’s rseas controversy, well maybe not controversy but curiosity. We are very much looking forward to our new adventure and sharing this year’s aquatic exploits with our new little fisherman. To all, happy fishing and be safe on the water.
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Posted: 02-10-2013, 12:32 AM
Everett Coho Derby! I Have Some Thoughts
a few inquiries regarding my thoughts on this year’s coho fishing I got to
thinking that a Blog post may be in order. So just in time for the Everett Coho
Derby… Our recent coho success or even the bigger picture, my boats overall
success on the salt this year is not just luck but I am not sure what it has
been. There are a few constants in our methods so here is what I know.
year a majority of our saltwater salmon fishing has been off the downriggers
pulling 11” flashers followed by a spoon or a hoochie of some sort. I love
mooching cut-plug herring and usually am quite successful with it, but quality
local herring has been hard to come by. The herring issue combined with the
fact that for the most part the mooching fisheries on Puget Sound are either
too crowded or further away than the various troll fisheries, has put me on the
troll. On my boat I run manual Scotty downriggers (electrics are on the list)
so my rig is nothing fancy. I removed the stainless steel downrigger cable that
came with my downriggers and I spooled them with the synthetic braided
downrigger cable. The braid significantly reduced my blow-back. The braid is
also much quieter in the water with zero cable whine. I have three sets of
downrigger balls, an 8# set for trout and kokanee fishing, a 10# set for
freshwater salmon and finally a 12# set for saltwater trolling. This winter I
plan to modify my downrigger mounts and may run 14# balls in the salt when all
is done. My blow-back is about 30 degrees when fishing for chinook and 45 degrees
when fishing for coho. As might be expected those are only rough guidelines and
you will need to work out your boat’s sweet spot. Actual boat speed is harder
to figure out. These days most boats are running GPS based speed indicators not
over the water. On the sound or even in a river the current and wind can
greatly impact your GPS verses over the water speed indication. For my boat our
idea trolling speed is more based on the tachometer reading and blow-back than
on some form of speedometer reading. Our RPM based speeds are 1,050-1,100 RPM
for coho, 1,000 RPM for chinook and 450 RPM (yes 450 rpm, I am able to
advance/retard my timing to give me more control over idle speed) for
freshwater salmon, trout and kokanee.
try not to keep any secrets and for the most part will share any information
that may help other fisherman be successful. This helps to feed a network of
fishing information that is often used to plan a trip. I rarely just go fishing
and the planning for the next trip starts with the fish caught during the
previous trip. Although more aligned with saltwater fishing than fresh I always
make a point to check stomach contents. That is the fishes not mine, I usually
have some idea what is in mine. If the fish are loaded with horse herring,
gravel and candlefish, krill or some other form of aquatic tidbit I adjust the
lure type and size accordingly. Many of the Mukilteo to Shipwreck coho I have dissected
this year have had empty stomachs. To me this suggests that that many of the
fish have already stopped feeding and are transitioning to a reaction or
territorial based strike instinct. To align my lure strategy accordingly I have
incorporated some of the crazier spoon patterns or have included an orange or
red insert in my hoochies. I am keeping all my offerings on the smaller side. For
my overall saltwater fishing this year the year to date stomach content analysis
suggests that candlefish have made up a bulk of the available food source. To “Match
the Hatch” I am running the smaller spoons and candlefish or needlefish
hoochies. Although I always hit the water with my standard lures tied up and
ready to go, chinook gear on 42” leaders and coho gear on 32” leaders I always
have the materials on board to retie and make adjustments as necessary. As part
of my pre-trip planning I always thoroughly research the tides, based on the
tides I establish a plan, a back-up plan and a back-up to the back-up plan. Although
you need to be able to shoot from the hip, I rarely just wing it and fish without
a plan. I know the early morning fishery is usually better, but don’t count out
the various tide phases at different locations. Last year while fishing the
south sound I had a 12 hour fishing plan that included hitting various
locations at specific tidal phases, including one that I felt would be holding
fish for about ½ hour during an afternoon tide. We arrived and with gear down
just 10 minutes we hooked two adult kings putting one of the fish in the boat.
On arrival I knew exactly what I had planned to run, at what depth, direction
and speed. Planning, planning planning!
speed dialed in, lures in order and your chosen hunting area all sorted out now
what about depth? For me that is a tough one. I know that when coho fishing the
standby theory is to start shallow and then fish deeper as the day progresses.
I don’t necessarily subscribe to the theory and start by looking for meter
marks. If I am not seeing fish or bait I move on but when I do, that is the
depth that I fish. While fishing recently and having very good success, every
single hit we had was off a meter mark. I was constantly adjusting the depth
the gear was running at to align with the meter marks. Many times I had just
raised or lowered the gear to a meter mark when WHAM-O we would hit a fish.
Sure you can catch fish by running your gear at a set depth and just trolling
around until you hook a fish but your odds of hooking-up are greatly increased
by chasing meter marks. I am constantly watching the meter and make immediate
depth adjustments when I see a meter mark. After a hook-up I try to hit the “MARK”
button on my fishfinder and will usually circle back around and re-run the
area. I almost always leave the boat in gear after a hook-up and adjust the
other downrigger to whatever depth the fish hit at. Again recently this tactic
produced multiple doubles one set being a 10# and a 13# coho. Chasing meter
marks is a lot of work but very effective.
have been launching early, less to hit the early bite than to avoid a
hocus-pocus and long wait at the ramp. We have caught fish all hours of the day
and through all phases of the tide. That said I have found the schools to be
more organized first thing in the morning. I think that the boat pressure tends
to scatter the fish making it more important to chase meter marks as you move
away from the early am fishing hours.
rigging my hoochies I tie the leader to assure that the trailing hook is placed
so that it is exposed behind the hoochie/insert combination. I use beads if
required to align the bend of the leading hook with the forward edge of the
hoochie tentacle slits. A final thought, although antidotal this year I have
found that while running hoochies, smaller herring strips have been much more
effective than full herring strips. Also, when running spoons I use banana
smelly jelly, NOT! For the smaller spoons I use anchovy and the larger spoons
either herring or bloody tuna smelly jelly scent.
hope this helps or is at least a starting point for your coho success. Pre-trip
planning will not guarantee success but will greatly improve your odds of going
home with a box full of something other than melted ice and waterlogged bologna
sandwiches. For your drooling pleasure I have included some snapshots from my fish
finder. Each one of them was taken as a fish hit and kicked out of the
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Posted: 09-20-2012, 10:56 AM